List of Historical Fabric More Popular In Medieval History

Discovering the fabrics of the Viking and early Middle Ages in Northern Europe reveals a fascinating glimpse into the past. During this time, wool and linen were the most common materials used for clothing. However, people also made use of hemp, nettle, and even silk fabrics. Cotton didn’t arrive in Europe until the late Middle Ages, making its way from India. This exploration into historical fabrics shows not just what people wore, but also their connections and trade with distant lands. Dive into the rich textile history of the Vikings and early medieval Europeans to learn more about their everyday lives and culture.

Linen

Linen Fabric is a versatile and breathable fabric, ideal for making undergarments like shirts, braies, and coifs. It's affordable and easy to find in fabric stores in colors like white, natural, blue, red, yellow, and green. For your undergarments, choosing linen in white, sand, natural, or other muted tones works well.

While wool is the best fabric for hose due to its stretch, linen is a good alternative for split hose and drapes nicely on the body. Women typically wore hose that reached the calf, and linen is suitable for this length. For men's hose, linen might be a bit loose since it doesn’t stretch like wool, but it still looks good and can be more practical.

Linen is also great for lining more expensive garments like surcoats. This not only protects the wool from sweat and soil but also adds a stylish touch if done in a contrasting or complementary color. Even if you don’t fully line a garment, consider lining the collar, sleeves, and hem to give the appearance of a fully lined piece.

Wool Historical Fabric

Wool Historical Fabric

When we think of wool Historical Fabric today, we often imagine it as thick, scratchy, and hot. While this can be true for some types of wool, a quality medium or lightweight wool won't have these problems. Instead, it will drape beautifully in longer garments like a cote, surcote, robe, cowled hood, or cape. Wool comes in various weights, and unless you need a garment for warmth, you should choose a medium or lightweight wool. When looking for lighter weight wools, make sure the fabric is opaque rather than sheer or semi-sheer.

Wool is an underappreciated fabric today because we often think of it only as a warm material, but it has many other benefits. One major advantage is its moisture resistance. When it rains, you won't immediately get soaking wet because water beads up on your garment and it absorbs quite a bit of water before you start feeling wet and uncomfortable. Additionally, in warmer weather, wool can help cool you down by wicking away sweat and allowing your body to cool itself.

Here are explanations for some basic types of wool and related terms:

Woolen Historical Fabric

This term refers to the fibers in the yarn. Woolen fabric has fibers going in many directions and has a noticeable weave. The fibers overlap, creating a textured surface.

Worsted

Worsted wool is usually lightweight and can be woven in various weaves. It's ideal for a quality summer cote or surcote. Unlike woolen fabric, the yarn in worsted wool is combed to run in the same direction and spun parallel, giving it a less fuzzy appearance.

Broadcloth/Melton

These fabrics don’t have a visible weave structure. They appear felted and can be very smooth, depending on quality. They range from medium to heavyweight, giving garments a rich, heavy drape that exudes quality. The extra weight provides extra warmth, making these fabrics good for three-season wear and excellent for cloaks and hoods.

Tweed

Tweed refers to a wool fabric using a twill weave. Twill weaves can be used in many fabrics, but in wool, it's called tweed. Tweeds are very durable and often lightweight, making them excellent for summer cotes and surcotes.

Knit

Commercial knitted fabrics are unsuitable for making cotes or surcotes and should be avoided.

Flannel

Wool flannel is a lighter version of broadcloth-style wool. It has no visible weave and appears felted. Unlike cotton flannels, wool flannels don’t fray along the cuts, making them a good choice for hoods, cloaks, and medium-weight garments.

Hemp Historical Fabric

Hemp, like linen, was widely used in the past, especially for canvas fabric. Though it's harder to find today, it was quite common in the medieval period. Hemp was valued for its durability and strength, making it ideal for items that needed to withstand heavy use.

Silk

Silk remains an expensive fabric even today. If you choose to use silk, ensure every part of your garment is high quality, as only the ultra-wealthy wore silk historically. Silk was more common in Italy and southern Europe due to the Silk Road trade established by Italians in the 12th and 13th centuries. This luxurious fabric was prized for its smooth texture and elegant appearance.

Cotton

Cotton was rarely used in the past, which is a challenge for reenactors since cotton is the most accessible fabric today. Many good colors, patterns, and deals are found in cotton. The authenticity of your garb largely depends on whether you choose to use cotton.

However, cotton comes in many styles and weaves, and you can find quality cotton that approximates other fabrics in weight, drape, and appearance. Sometimes, using cotton might be practical if the period-accurate fabric you need isn’t available in the right colour, weight, or style. Cotton is versatile and can mimic the look and feel of more historically accurate fabrics, making it a useful alternative for those on a budget or with limited options.

Overall, wool, hemp, silk, and cotton each have unique properties that can be advantageous depending on the type of garment you want to create. Wool is excellent for moisture resistance and can keep you warm or cool depending on the weight. Hemp is durable and was historically used for sturdy fabrics. Silk is luxurious and was reserved for the wealthy, while cotton, though not historically common, offers versatility and accessibility for modern reenactors. When choosing your fabric, consider the specific needs of your garment, the historical accuracy you aim for, and the practical aspects of availability and cost.